Where we intersect.

The fleeting encounters I sorely miss.

Mar 15, 2023

While transiting via Amsterdam on my way to Robinson Crusoe Island in Chile last year, I had a few hours to kill and what seemed like a foolproof plan. I would take the train into the city, grab some of the world’s best vegan croissants (YES!) at Margo’s, walk over to the nearest Ekoplaza to stock up on healthy comfort food for my month on the island, and head back to the airport.

I plugged in Margo’s and Ekoplaza on Google Maps, and stepped onto the train. As luck would have it, it was a cold, rainy, windy day in Amsterdam. The city was all but deserted in the morning. My plan was on track until I stepped out of Ekoplaza with a big bag full of goodies, and accidentally shut Google Maps. I couldn’t re-plug directions, couldn’t find an accessible Wifi connection, and couldn’t get my roaming to work either.

The not-so-friendly cashier at Ekoplaza roughly pointed me left when I asked about the nearest metro station. I began walking, but quickly got lost in the labyrinth of Amsterdam’s by-lanes. Half an hour later, my fingers were nearly frozen from the cold, my shoulders hurt from the weight of the stuff I’d bought, and I was no closer to finding my way. Plus, I had a flight I really couldn’t afford to miss!

I spotted a tram going in a direction I didn’t recognize, and impulsively hopped on, hoping to find a familiar station along the way. Two stops later, I panicked and got off.

A handful of people – masked, for pandemic restrictions were still in place – were waiting for another tram. I asked the only person not on his phone, for directions. A random call for help turned into a conversation, as I learnt that he was born in Afghanistan, spent the better part of life in Iran, and felt a special connection to India. We exchanged a handful of words in Urdu and Farsi, and instead of getting off at his stop, he journeyed with me to the airport, sharing the gritty story of how he had sought refugee status in the Netherlands. While he’d been able to build a new life for himself and buy his parents a home of their own in Iran, his messy paperwork hadn’t allowed him to see his family in nearly 12 years.

As we parted ways at the airport, I thought about our vastly different lives, and how they randomly intersected in Amsterdam.

It is these fleeting encounters that I sorely miss, now that I’m no longer travelling full time. I’ve tried to fill the void of my nomadic life with ambitious work projects, Spanish classes, and a slew of other things. Determined to chase the now-illusive high of the road in other ways, I’ve started walking in many different directions - only to feel as lost as I did in the labyrinth of Amsterdam’s by-lanes.

They say, not all those who wander are lost. But what about those who no longer wander?

March recommendations

Conscious travel recommendations, eco-friendly finds and meaningful opportunities, as well as articles, books and films that’ve inspired me.

Travel:

Spring is a delightful time for the mountains of Central Asia - the high lakes of Tajikistan, the mountain villages of Uzbekistan, the 14th century architecture of Samarqand, and the lost stories of the Silk Road. Some tips and stories to inspire your journey:

Read:

I’m halfway through Johann Hari’s Stolen Focus, and it’s the best thing I’ve read in a long time. Drawing on personal experience and scientific research, the book explores what’s happening to our individual and collective focus in the world of social media and information overload - and how we can reclaim some of that focus. It has already inspired me to sign up for a meditation retreat, and I’m toying with the idea of phone-free Sundays.

Try:

I have two new favorite vegan chocolates! The Whole Truth, sweetened only with dates (I love their almond and raisins, dark chocolate, and hazelnut flavors). And Didier and Frank, who claim to use some secret Mayan recipe for an incredible chocolate with minimal sugar (I like their hazelnut, roasted almonds and mint flavors).

Opportunities:

Fellowship coordinator at Voices of Rural India: This position is still open, and now available as a hybrid role with 7 months in Munsiyari and 5 months remotely. If you’re a mid-career professional or someone driven to make a social impact, apply to drive this one-of-a-kind digital storytelling fellowship for tourism-dependent rural communities.

My stories elsewhere

Stories I’ve written recently, as well as social media posts I’d love for you to check out.

Stories:

Travel + Leisure: In the March issue of the magazine, I wrote a story about the forgotten nomads who once shuttled along a now-disputed trade route between India and Tibet. [PDF]

Blog:

Instagram:

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