What it's Like to Travel as an Unmarried Couple in India and Elsewhere

His eyes, and the frown just above them, scanned my face and soaked clothes, perhaps looking for a ring, bangles or sindoor.

My partner and I took our first trip to Dharamsala many monsoons ago. We were very much in love and looking for adventure in the mountains.

Having lived away from the country during our adult years, we had no idea that two young people of the opposite sex travelling together in India, without any visible signs of being married, was going to be an advent…

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